Cape Verde - Sal

“Cape Verde – No Stress. It’s the local mantra and just one of the things making this place the hottest buzzword in travel.”

The Caribbean just got closer. In just over five hours you can be on a beach that’s got paradise written all over it. Think ice-white sands that disappear into the distance. Bold blue skies that rarely see a cloud. And waters so clear you can still see your feet even when you’re in up to your neck. You could be forgiven for thinking you’ve landed in Barbados. But this is the scene that greets you in Cape Verde, a bouquet of islands the travel pack are calling the African Caribbean. And because it’s only just registering on the tourist radar, it’s unspoilt. Seriously unspoilt. We’re talking that Robinson Crusoe castaway effect. The kind of place where you can walk barefoot for miles without crossing paths with another soul. In terms of where to find them on the map, trace your finger across from Senegal and you’ll see them marooned in the Atlantic. But though they pinch plenty of ideas from African culture, they’re actually Portuguese. Even nearby Brazil manages to get in on the act so the result is a real cocktail of the three. There are nine islands in total, with Sal taking centre stage. While its sands could have been airlifted from the West Indies, the landscape here looks more like Mars. It’s rocky, it’s barren and if you were a location scout for a spaghetti western movie, it’d make your shortlist. The place to be here is Santa Maria in the south. In fact, it’s the only resort here at the minute – that’s just how up-and-coming this island is. It’s got a slightly ramshackle feel – but that’s part of its charm. Crumbling houses in a palette of pinks, pistachios and pale blues exfoliate gently in the sun. Cobbled streets dip down into the odd pothole. And people’s homes double up as shops and cafes. At the other end of the scale, you’ve got luxury hotels springing up along the beachfront. Make no mistake about it, this place is set to skyrocket. Come and be one of the first to leave your footprints on Sal’s sun-swept sands.

Weather

The sunshine pours down on Sal with temperatures locking into the blissful 25 to 27°C range right through from January and August. And it never gets over hot or humid, either – the cooling trade winds wafting over the island keep things nicely comfortable for sunbathers. Bear in mind though that there’s a rainy season between August and October, although the amount varies a lot from year to year. Overall, the best time to come is November to July, when the days and evenings are wonderfully warm and dry.

Beaches

Talcum-soft sands stretched out like a never-ending ribbon. Turquoise seas so clear you can almost spot exotic fish from your sun-lounger. And epic, wide-open views of Sal’s sister islands. When it comes to beaches, this place has got a lot to be smug about. The best thing about them? They’re uncrowded. Pad along any stretch and your footprints will stay untouched for hours on end. And you’ll have acres of silence and space to unfurl your towel and melt into your own private daydream. The good news is that Santa Maria sits alongside one of Sal’s finest beaches. From the town, its sands roll out for 8 kilometres, edged by a string of plush hotels. Just saunter down from your hotel and flop. If you’re looking for a buzzier feel, stick around nearer the town, where raffia-roofed beach restaurants, excursion boats and watersports centres fringe the shore. And talking of watersports, Sal’s renowned for them. Grab your snorkel and paddle out into the crystal waters. Before long you’ll be joined by squadrons of technicoloured fish and maybe even a turtle or two. Try your hand at windsurfing – letting the breezes brush you across the waves. Or join a diving trip to swoop around the tunnels, reefs and shipwrecks submerged around the island. But don’t think Santa Maria’s the only beach worthy of your attentions. At nearby Murdeira Bay, you’ll find vast silvery sands and glittering waters where pods of dolphins occasionally come to play. Or hire a jeep and trundle off to wild and rocky Buracona. This picturesque spot is all crashing waves, volcanic cliffs and natural sea pools, making it perfect for swimming and picnicking the day away.

Food & Drink

If you’re a fan of fish and seafood, you’ll be like a kid in a sweet shop in Sal. Wooden fishing boats bring in the catch at Santa Maria’s jetty every morning and by sundown, it’s grilled, garnished and slapped on your plate. We’re talking mouth-watering slabs of yellowfin tuna. Seared wahoo steaks. And fillets of garopa. Then there’s the shellfish. It’s super-cheap, so you can dig into delicacies like grilled lobster without clawing around for your credit card. And if you think that’s dreamy – just wait for the ‘lagosta’. These pink, fleshy crayfish abound in Sal’s waters. Or dip your spoon into ‘caldo de peixe’. This hearty fish-and-vegetable stew is a tastebud sensation. But don’t think everything’s about fish. The main must-try here is ‘cachupa’. This devilishly tasty African-inspired meal is a satisfying fusion of maize, sweet potato, beans and meat. Or for something more familiar, dig into the barbecued meats. Most of Santa Maria’s restaurants cook up sizzllng ‘pinchos’ and ‘frangos’ – meat and chicken kebabs - on outside grills, letting the heady aromas entice hungry diners. And get ready for some great desserts. Banana flambés. Succulent semi-dried tropical fruits ladled with goat’s cheese. And sugary papaya and coconut sweets. When it comes to wine, it’s mostly about the soft reds and whites from the island of Fogo or crisp, Portuguese ‘vinho verdes’. Beer lovers won’t be left out, either. Quench your thirst with some local ‘Coral’ or Portuguese ‘Sagres’ – they’re both ultra refreshing. Or brace yourself for some ‘grogue’. The local sugar cane rum is an acquired taste, so most visitors settle for its sweetened version, ‘ponche’. Made from ‘grogue’ but with added honey and lime, it tastes like liquid fruit breaking on your tongue. Oh, and if you’re hankering after European-style food - no worries. Santa Maria has several Italian eateries and most restaurants offer delicious pastas, omelettes and grilled meats. Add the international fare dished up at the hotels and even the fussiest eaters will feel right at home.

• Zum Fischerman, Santa Maria Fresh tuna and wahoo is plated up at this friendly German-run eaterie. Join one of their fishing trips and they’ll even cook your catch for you, too.
• Restaurant Americo’s, Santa Maria Loved by tourists for its lobster and grilled meats, this simple upstairs restaurant is a local legend. It’s fantastic value, too.
• Matheus, Santa Maria Tucked in Santa Maria’s main square, this lively open-air spot rustles up endless fresh fish recipes accompanied by great live music.
• Café Cultural, Santa Maria Seekers of genuine Cape Verde food will want to book this welcoming café every night. Feast on what many claim are the best ‘cachupas’ and fruit punches in town.
• Farolin, Hotel Odjos d’Agua, Santa Maria Tuna drenched in curried coconut milk. Tasty ‘feijoada’ bean stew. And eye-smacking ocean views from a romantic terrace jutting over the water.

Shopping

Okay, shopping’s pretty low on Sal’s list of holiday attractions. But with beaches this good, retail therapy isn’t top of most people’s agenda. That said Santa Maria’s got a few pleasant surprises for when you manage to wrench yourself from the sands. Take a wander along the main street and little lanes to find them. You may even have to peep around some doors before you’ll even know they’re shops. But that’s all part of the fun of shopping here. We’re talking dusty little music stores neck-high in ‘morna’ and ‘funana’ CDs. Intriguing nooks peddling Senegalese woodcarvings and beaded jewellery. And a peppering of surf outlets and minimarkets perfect for collecting last-minute beach gear and sun-cream. For the widest choice of take-homes, trot along to the Mercado Municipal. This hotchpotch of stalls and workshops is packed to the gunnels with Cape Verde curios and African trinkets. Bongo drums, wood sculptures and tribal masks litter the floor. Trestle tables overflow with batik shirts, decorative bracelets and dayglo canvasses. And vendors holler out their bargains in between bouts of excited haggling. Throw yourself into the throng and rummage out a bargain or two. And don’t be afraid to barter – it’s expected. For authentic Cape Verde mementoes, Santa Maria’s Cultural Centre is a showpiece for Sal’s handicrafts. Take your pick from its clay figurines, hand-woven fabrics or local books and you’ll be supporting the island’s economy at the same time. Or make your way to colourful Espargos. Sal’s capital has a cluster of markets and shops perfect for adding to your Santa Maria goodie bag. And if you’re wondering what to buy, it’s easy. Sniff out the wine and coffee beans from Fogo - the volcanic soil of this Cape Verde Island gives them knockout flavour. Or for something stronger, grab some ‘grogue’. The local rum may be super-strong, but it will definitely uncork happy memories of Sal’s friendly spirit.

Nightlife

Not surprising for somewhere that’s still emerging into the bright lights of tourism, Sal isn’t packed with clubs and pubs. Most nightlife in Santa Maria comes courtesy of the hotels. They’re more than eager to lay on fun theme shows - cue dancing and drumming from Senegalese music troupes, live bands playing Cape Verde’s soulful ‘morna’ or energetic ‘funana’ music, and limbo dancing where everyone falls over themselves to have a go. But of course, you can always do your own thing. Linger over a starlit dinner on an ocean-view terrace. Slurp cocktails on sunset-washed sands. Or stroll into town to sample the local nightlife. Come sundown, Santa Maria has a clutch of animated bars and nightspots where you can hang out with the locals. The beachfront’s a good starting point. Here, several bars host popular Happy Hours and African dancing that’ll have you clinking caipirinhas in time with the rhythms. The streets fanning out from the main square are fairly lively, too. Think funky surfers’ haunts, pavement restaurants and simple wooden bars. Plant yourself in any one, order a ‘ponche’ and before long, you’ll be swept up in an impromptu party powered by the bittersweet strains of ‘morna’. A gentle fusion of Portuguese ‘fado’ music and Brazilian beats, the songs are so sensually seductive, you’ll be kicking your heels and clicking your fingers in no time. And if you’re still in dancing mode come midnight, take off for one Santa Maria’s trio of discos. Their fusion of African beats and classic pop is sure to keep you strutting and swaying till the sun sends its first rays over the ocean.

• Disco Pirata, Santa Maria Swing your hips to hypnotic Latino rhythms, hip-hop and reggae at Sal’s original disco. Beloved by tourists and locals alike, nothing gets going till past midnight, so expect to be yawning come morning.
• Morabeza Bar, Santa Maria A favourite with Brits, this cosy waterhole is great for relaxing over ice-cold cocktails. Start with its popular two for one Happy Hour and stick around for the lively African dancing shows.
• Funana, Santa Maria Nightly live music and wild dancing draws crowds to this fun-packed beachfront bar-restaurant. If you’re up for partying, it’s your kind of place.
• Tam Tam, Santa Maria Soak up the Irish craic at this popular wood-roofed haven. Run by an Irish couple, it does a mean line in killer cocktails, live music and even big-screen footie.
• Bar Calema, Santa Maria The first-ever tourist bar in Sal, this windsurfers’ haunt has squishy sofas and a buzzy vibe. Don’t miss the ‘caipirinhas’ – they’re great.

Date For the Diary

The big date in Sal is August 15th, when the whole island celebrates ‘Nossa Senhora das Dores’ – a day dedicated to the Virgin Mary. In Santa Maria, the festivities include swimming contests, colourful street processions and exuberant dancing to ‘morna’. And if you’re here around the 15th September, you’re in for a treat. That’s when Santa Maria hosts its Festival of Music – a three-day extravaganza that attracts a starry line of international bands, pop acts and Cape Verde musicians. You can’t miss it – huge stages appear on the sands and everyone seems to attend turning the event into one serious outdoor party.

Top 10 Experiences

Pedra de Lume, Sal
Grab your camera and cossie. You’re in for something truly memorable here. Pedra de Lume was once famous for its salt mines, which supplied salt to Africa back in the 18th century. Today the industry has long gone, but the saltpans remain – a serene mosaic of pink, blue and green lakes hewn into a volcanic crater. Once you’ve inspected the old mining village, you’ll walk through a tunnel to enter the crater – emerging from the darkness into a scene of jaw-dropping beauty. And once you’ve captured it all on camera, it’s time to wade into the salty lake waters, lean back and bob like a cork, Dead Sea-style.

Blue Eye
This is a favourite diving spot, but landlubbers will enjoy it, too. Located on the craggy lava shores of Sal’s north coast at Buracona, it’s actually a lagoon-filled cavern and sea tunnel you can peer down at through the rocks. At a certain time of day, the sun’s rays form a luminous, eye-shaped turquoise glow on the water, illuminating the underwater chamber in a way that’s utterly magical.

Island Cruises
Fancy feeling the sea breezes in your hair? These popular full day and half-day mini-cruises will be just the ticket. Chill out on deck as the surreal lunar landscapes of Sal drift gently by. Most cruises anchor at hideaway beaches to let you snorkel in the crystalline waters, and many stop off for visits to some of the island’s best-known beauty spots. A perfect way to drink in Sal’s sunshine, scenery and surf in one profoundly lazy round trip.

Buracona
Adventurous swimmers will love this natural coastal pool. An elongated seawater lagoon encased in black volcanic rocks, white-crested waves gush over its seaward wall every few minutes, refilling it with foaming and fizzing water. It’s like a whitewater rafting trip without the raft. Take a picnic along and while away the day watching the waves, splashing in the gushing waters and wallowing in the sunshine.

Scuba Diving
Labyrinthine caves. Eye-popping marine life. And dramatic shipwrecks. Sal’s combination of volcanic landscapes and crystal-clear waters make it a dream-come-true for scuba divers. Keen beginners will find lots of PADI accredited courses in Santa Maria, and if you’re already qualified – then the world’s your oyster. Join a trip to drift around the silent rock tunnels and caves of Buracona. Poke around hulking wrecks swarming with parrotfish and lobster. Or float over spectacular reef walls crowded with yellow polyps, trumpet fish and even barracuda and manta rays.

Big Game Fishing
If you’re up for wrestling with big game fish, you’ll fall for Sal hook, line and sinker, especially between July and October when its waters burst with super-size species. Lots of fishing trips leave from Santa Maria, so book your place, slap on the sun-cream and settle in for a long session. If you’re lucky, you could cruise home with anything from a spearfish or wahoo to a shark or a gigantic, glittering sailfish.

Jeep Tours
Grab that explorer’s hat and hire a jeep to roam Sal’s bleak interior and deserted coastline. Gaze in awe as you rumble across its barren landscapes. Sunbathe on isolated beaches where you won’t see another soul all day. Watch for dolphins on a boat in Murdeira Bay. And on your way back, potter around the bustling capital of Espargos with its sugar-almond houses, outdoor markets and fantastic seafood restaurants.

Windsurfing & Kite-surfing
Sal and windsurfing go together like caipirinhas and ice. For starters, the fresh trade winds that brush the island from October to June create the perfect swells and breaks – not just for windsurfers but for kite-surfers, too. Whether you’re a novice or experienced, you’ll find schools and equipment rentals ten-a-penny, so there’s no excuse not to charge out onto the water. Santa Maria’s beach is great for most skill levels, but serious windsurfers will adore Ponta Preta, with its world-class breaks and 8 foot-high waves.

Boavista
Board a trimaran or sailboat to Sal’s nearest neighbour, Boavista. Virtually circular in shape, it’s blessed with incredible white sandy beaches that blur into a stark desert interior. Stroll its cobbled capital, Sal Rei, stopping for coffee in its tree-shaded square and souvenir hunting in its craft shops. Loll on an empty beach to bask in the sweeping panoramas and aquamarine seas. And if you have time, strike out inland, where windswept dunes, date palms and deserted oases pepper the countryside.

Sao Nicolau
Deep fertile valleys. Lush tropical plantations. And shimmering black beaches. Just a half-hour’s plane ride from Sal, the breathtaking island of Sao Nicolau is perfect for soaking up Mother Nature’s wonders. Highlights include its pretty mountain capital, Ribeira Brava – a peeling colonial town filled with cobbled alleys, intriguing shops and excellent restaurants. Alternatively, set off on a hiking trail to explore the movie-set mountains. Want something less strenuous? Sun-and-surf addicts should head to Tarrafal, where powerful Atlantic waves crash onto a volcanic beach edged by craggy cliffs. Simply spectacular.

Just So You Know

It’s easy to get around Sal - just flag down an ‘aluguer’. These trundling minibuses connect the main towns and are great for experiencing the nitty-gritty of local life – they’re usually packed with people carrying bags, packages and even chickens. The driver will stop to let you off wherever you want, too. But be warned - services stop mid-afternoon, so you’ll need to make sure you’re not left stranded!