Dominican Republic

“Seductive merengue mingling with sugar-soft beaches. The La Romana region of the Dominican Republic is pure Caribbean paradise.”

When Christopher Columbus first landed in the southern Dominican Republic, he could never have imagined what his first steps would eventually lead to. He arrived in search of gold, way back in 1494. But a few centuries on, there’s a new kind of gold rush - the rush of holidaymakers who come here seeking hot sunshine, snowy-white beaches and turquoise seas. And this stretch of the Dominican Republic’s south coast falls over itself to oblige. Think whispering palms leaning over sugar-soft sands. Waves of ultramarine gently lapping at your toes. Warm sunshine that seems to go on forever. And a few other things, too. The lilting rhythms of merengue drifting through the air. The warm hospitality of the friendly people. The freshest seafood you’ve ever tasted. And perhaps best of all, the laid-back, no-worries vibe that instantly tells you you’re in the Caribbean. But the La Romana region’s got other, lesser-known charms. Behind the beaches lies a tropical wonderland. Deep in the interior, forests and canyons jostle with mountains and rivers ripe for adventure sports. In the lowlands, sugar cane plantations give way to lush meadows, historic towns and villages. And in the capital of Santo Domingo where Columbus once walked, cobbled alleyways, churches and colonial Spanish palaces mingle with noisy street markets and shoeshine boys. But it’s the beaches that’ll grab most of your time. In resorts like Bayahibe and Juan Dolio, you’ll find sublime sweeps of sand fringed with fabulous resort hotels and exciting watersports. Translucent seas studded with coral reefs and islets. Laid-back beach huts where the locals sip rum punches under the palms. And at night, high-spirited bars and beach discos pulsing with the sweet beats of salsa and bachata. If you’re looking for a chilled-out holiday hideout, the La Romana region really cuts it. Christopher Columbus deserves a medal for finding this place.

Weather

The Dominican Republic’s weather is a real trump card. Quite simply, the whole country – including La Romana - wallows in warm sunshine all year round. Between May and October, temperatures settle around 23-32°C, so the days are hot, hot, hot. However, summer brings the most rain - although it comes in short bursts. The most popular time to visit is December to April, when there’s less rain and the days are just as hot as in summer. Occasional hurricanes hit between June and September, but the tourist hotels are well prepared for the storms they bring.

Beaches

Close your eyes. Now imagine the dreamiest beaches you can possibly dream up. If you’re seeing dazzling white sands fringed by drooping coconut palms and electric-blue seas, you’re spot on. Because that’s exactly what the beaches in the La Romana region look like. No wonder the area’s called ‘Costa Caribe’. It couldn’t look or feel more like a Caribbean picture-postcard if it tried. Add the sizzling sunshine, great watersports and bath-warm sea temperatures and it’s heaven on earth. Take Bayahibe beach for instance. Merging into neighbouring Dominicus beach, this six-mile stretch of sands is edged with resort hotels and cheery beach bars. Shake off your flip-flops, unroll that towel and empty your mind of stresses. Skim the waves on a jet-ski or kayak. Or don a wetsuit or snorkel for a serious scuba or snorkelling session. The offshore reefs are jam-packed with luminousl fish and marine creatures. To the west, Juan Dolio’s got more of the same. Deep, snow-white sands as soft and fluffy as a shag-pile rug. Tall, nodding palms one way and aquamarine waters the other. And exciting watersports like windsurfing and sailboats. Just offshore, a sheltering coral reef awaits divers and snorkellers. The coral beds are teeming with candy-coloured fish, drifting lobsters, flame-red starfish and exotic sponges swaying with the tide. Go and see it – it’s like the Piccadilly Circus of the marine world.

Eating out

If you’ve come here expecting spicy Caribbean cuisine, you’re in for a surprise. The food’s more Spanish-Creole in style – largely due to the country’s long years under Spanish rule. Think plenty of paella-style dishes, tasty meat stews and lightly spiced dishes with lashings of coconut cream. One of the best-loved meals is ‘la banderas’. A hunger-busting platter of rice, beans, meat and vegetables, it matches the colours of the national flag. It’s usually served with fried ‘tostones’ – plantains - and makes a great lunchtime filler. Another must-try is ‘sancocho’. This hearty Spanish-style stew is made with chunks of meat, tender root vegetables, pumpkin and avocado. And don’t leave without tasting coconut-flavoured dishes like ‘pescado con coco’. A combo of fresh kingfish or mullet in coconut milk, it’s best enjoyed barefoot on the beach. Save some space for the other seafood, too - spiny lobster, crab and squid are all popular choices. Then let yourself loose on desserts like ‘aqua de coco’ – coconut and fresh fruit smothered in super-sweet sugar cane juice. The ice-cream’s really good here, too. Head to one of the many parlours for tingly tropical sherbet, macadamia and rum-infused scoops. And if you don’t want to eat just local food, don’t despair. Inside the hotels and out, Bayahibe and Juan Dolio are brim-full of international restaurants. Steakhouses. Pizzerias. Chinese. Tex-Mex. They’re all here. And if you want to spread your net further, stick around in Santo Domingo and Altos de Chavon, where some top-notch French, seafood and Dominican eateries await. Last up, make sure you try the local drinks like crisp Presidente beer or a straw-punched green coconut. The local rum deserves a look-in here, too. It’s cheap, good quality and absolutely everywhere. Try it in a cuba libre – mixed with Coke or Sprite. Or enjoy a rum cocktail or two. Pina coladas straight from paradise. Divine-tasting daquiris. And banana mamas – blinding blends of rum, banana and coconut cream.

• Yssamar, Bayahibe – This simple café on Bayahibe beach serves fantastic, fresh-from-the-net seafood all day, till late.
• La Bahia, Santo Domingo – Succulent lobster. Kingfish in coconut. And red snapper. This unpretentious seafood eatery serves some of the finest and freshest in the country.
• El Mesón de la Cava, Santo Domingo – Foot-tapping Latino jazz serenades you at this subterranean, stalactite-filled restaurant while you feast on specialities like sautéed shrimp and thick gazpacho.
• Casa del Rio, Altos de Chavon – Hailed as the best restaurant in the Caribbean, it’s bistro-fusion dishes all the way at Casa del Rio. Better still, they all come with jaw-dropping views over the Chavon Valley.
• Café Real, Juan Dolio – Pizzas with a tasty Caribbean twist land on your plate at this friendly haunt near the beachfront. Great value and much-loved by locals and tourists.

Shopping

Okay. Shopping’s not the obvious pastime in the Dominican Republic. This isn’t really the place for swanning around swanky stores – although you’ll find a few in Santo Domingo. Outside the capital, it’s all a bit more rough and ready. In Bayahibe and Juan Dolio, it’s the friendly ‘colmados’ you’ll probably pop into most. Little more than old-fashioned huts, they make their way selling essentials like sun lotion and cold drinks. Souvenir stalls are ten a penny too. Fronted by smiley traders, they’re piled with handicrafts, woodcarvings and native drums – although prices can be steep. And in most hotels, you’ll find enticing gift shops selling colourful souvenirs and vibrant beachwear. For a wider range of all things arty, head for Altos de Chavon. This recreated village is a handicraft showcase and souvenir heaven. Here, dinky stores and galleries are filled with authentic take-homes like fluorescent paintings, merengue-playing music boxes and hand-painted ceramic Taino dolls. For a serious spree though, it has to be La Romana or Santo Domingo. In La Romana, you’ll find countless stores selling hand-rolled Dominican cigars, rich local coffee and every local brand of rum. Check out the official jewellers too. Most specialise in the local amber and larimar jewellery, and they’re endorsed by the government, so you’ll know you’re getting the genuine article. The best keepsake is probably larimar - the light turquoise gemstone that’s only found in the Dominican Republic. Don’t miss the municipal ‘mercado’ while you’re here either. A ragbag of food, clothes and souvenir stalls it’s a sight to behold. As for Santo Domingo, it’s laden with shops. Head for the ‘Calle Conde’ and you’ll be greeted by loads of electronic and gift emporiums all keen to part you from your pesos. Or follow the wealthiest shoppers to the smart, department store-packed Avenida Duarte. And whatever you do, go see Santo’s main market. This explosion of food and bric-a-brac stalls is made for browsing, with hundreds of merchants hollering out their bargains through a wall of merengue.

Nightlife

If you’re hoping to hit the pillow early every night, then you may prefer somewhere else for your holiday. Because the La Romana region revs up a few notches once the sun goes down. In Bayahibe and Juan Dolio, there’s plenty to keep you up late. At most hotels, live merengue and Latino jazz bands take centre-stage, competing with flashy in-house discos. And if you fancy a flutter, chase Lady Luck at one of the popular local or hotel-run casinos. Oh, and there’s something else going on. All around you. We’re talking a more local kind of nightlife - out on the streets and the sands. Head outside and follow the seductive sounds of Latino music. Soon enough, you’ll be in the centre of the action. All around Bayahibe and Juan Dolio, friendly street bars spill out on the roadside, their tables filled with Dominicans downing chilled Presidente, playing dominos, swapping stories and sipping rum cocktails. Along the sands, beach shacks overflow with chattering diners. And occasionally, a crowded open-air disco pumps out Caribbean beats in the glow of flame-lit torches. Got two left feet? No worries. Everywhere, lithe-limbed youngsters leap up to show off their snake-hipped dance moves. Take your cue from their gleefully demonstrated steps and let the intoxicating rhythms take you over. Strictly Come Dancing eat your heart out…

• Mata Pollo, Juan Dolio – More of a pub than a club, this popular hangout is great for kicking back over drinks and shooting pool, too. Lively and loud.
• Club Guacara Taina, Santo Domingo – Set in an underground cave, this is one for die-hard clubbers. Ice-cold cocktails, three floors and deafening pop keep everything hot ‘til late at weekends.
• Monte Cristo, Santo Domingo – Always heaving, this popular nightspot packs in the punters with non-stop merengue and salsa. It’s on the small side, so go early to claim your floor space.
• Casino Dominicus, Bayhibe - La Romana – If you’re partial to a bet or two, this’ll make your heart flutter. A new casino between Bayahibe and La Romana, it’s crowded with gaming tables and lays on Las Vegas-style shows for extra glitz.
• Big Sur, Bayahibe – Groove on the sands to merengue and bachata at this on-off beach disco by the bayside. Everything starts after 10pm.

Dates for your diary

A quick look at the calendar here only turns up two or three official festivals. But don’t be fooled. The locals don’t need an excuse to party, so there’s plenty of impromptu fun all year round. That said there are two major dates everyone looks forward too. August the 16th is Restoration Day – the day the country threw off Spanish rule – and it’s carnival time in every town and village. Watch out for big, boisterous processions featuring devil-masked revellers. It’s the same on National Day on February the 27th, when more carnivals hit the streets. But for sheer exuberance, you can’t beat Santo Domingo’s annual Merengue Festival. From late July to early August, the whole capital morphs into an open-air merengue disco with parties and merry-making crowds.

Top 10 Experiences

Scuba diving
Sheer rock walls. Technicolour corals. And marine life in all shapes and sizes. The waters around La Romana are a playground for divers. If you’re a beginner, lots of hotels offer introductory courses. If you’re experienced, however, the world’s your oyster with loads of dive trips to get you out into the mirror-glass waters. All along the coast – particularly around Bayahibe and Isla Catalina – you can swoop around spooky shipwrecks, sponge-covered walls, creepy caves and even sand-encrusted cannons swarming with lobster and silvery shoals.

Cigar Factory, La Romana
Cigars are big business here and touring one of La Romana’s cigar factories is a real eye-opener – if only to marvel at the dexterity of the workers. You’ll see the curing rooms where the tobacco’s dried and watch as staff cut and roll each Palma, Churchill and Corona with a few, effortless flicks of their wrists. The earthy scent of tobacco hangs heavy everywhere and you can pick from the huge array of cigars at the factory’s gift shop, too.

Santo Domingo
Santo Domingo is the Republic’s capital and more than deserves a slot on your hit list. Founded by Christopher Columbus in 1502, it’s the oldest city in the New World and boasts an old quarter choc-full of colonial buildings, charming lanes and remnants from the great explorer’s day. Once you’ve clocked the huge Columbus Lighthouse, which houses his remains, check out the Alcazar de Colon. It was built by slaves for his son, Diego. And see the city’s glorious cathedral, too. Afterwards, lose yourself in palaces, museums and leafy parks. Before you go, stroll along the Ataranza, one of Santo Domingo’s prettiest streets.

Altos de Chavon
Scenes from the movie Apocalypse Now were filmed here and Michael Jackson and Lisa Marie Presley got hitched in its tiny chapel. This pretty village perches above the River Chavon and boasts movie-star credentials. And ironically so, because it’s almost like a film set itself. While it looks like a 16th-century Spanish village, it’s actually a replica and is now a cultural centre. Meander around its cobbled streets and plazas filled with handicraft workshops, galleries and cafes. Then wander around its archaeological museum and amphitheatre before taking in the awesome river views.

Isla Saona
Columbus discovered this little piece of paradise in 1494 and now it’s your turn. Lying off the south east coast, it’s part of a National Park and offers up immaculate sands, nodding coconut palms and crystal-clear waters. Catch a speedboat from Bayahibe to bask on its beaches and you’ll feel like an A-lister on holiday. The boat ride’s pretty good, too – whisking you past mangroves and lagoons packed with rare birds and bottle-nosed dolphins.

Baseball
American baseball or ‘beisbol’ is a national passion. If you’re here during the season - between October and February – book a seat to see one of the games that have the whole country hooked. Some of the American League’s best players hail from the Republic and play for their home sides every winter, so it’s world-class stuff. Head for Santo Domingo’s Quisqueya Stadium to cheer on the country’s best team, the ‘Tigres del Licey’. Or try the Estadio Francisco Michelli in La Romana, home to the less successful but still avidly supported, ‘Azucareros’.

Whale-watching
It’s a long day out, but a whale-watching excursion to Samana Bay is one of those now-or-never opportunities. Around 10,000 humpback whales visit the bay to breed between January and March every year, giving you a chance to see these magnificent creatures as they turn tail in the waters. You may even hear the eerie songs of the males as they frolic in the waves. Unforgettable.

Higuey
Famed for its two cathedrals – one old, one modern – Higuey’s a much-trampled stop on the Republic’s pilgrimage trail. The original basilica marks where Columbus planted a cross during an attack by the native Tainos Indians. Legend has it a vision of the Virgin Mary appeared on the cross, frightening off the Indians and securing him victory. And although it’s not beautiful, the 1950s cathedral is an impressive sight thanks to its soaring, wishbone-shaped tower.

Isla Catalina
Measuring 9 kilometres square, this islet looks like it’s been plucked from the pages of Robinson Crusoe with its powdery sands, swaying palms and exotic mangroves. Take a day trip and revel in its beaches and waters before spying on the birds and wild monkeys in its tropical greenery.

Jungle safaris
Outdoor types will be tripping over themselves to explore the Dominican Republic’s dramatic interior. Jam-packed with mountains, canyons, rivers and pine forests, it’s a fantasy land for explorers, rafters and walkers alike. The best bits lie around the Yaque del Norte River, where you can join a whitewater-rafting trip along the gushing rapids, ride a jeep on a bone-shaking jungle safari or go ballooning or parasailing. You may need to make an overnight trip, but Mother Nature makes it more than worth it.

Just so you Know
For health and safety reasons, we don’t recommend you buy excursions from La Romana’s beach vendors. It’s also worth knowing that it’s customary to pay a 5-10% tip in restaurants even though a service charge will already have been added to your bill.