Cozumel Island - Mexico, Carribean Coast

“World-class coral reefs. Translucent waters. Endless beaches. Cozumel Island is Mexico’s biggest castaway.”

Teardrop-shaped Cozumel Island is something of a well-kept secret. Ask someone to point to it on a map and while most could hazard a guess that it’s in the Caribbean, very few could stick the pin in. But that’s not to say it’s undiscovered. Far from it – it’s one of the main stop-offs for the Caribbean cruise crowd. And the who’s who of the diving world have been heading here since the sixties when the island was pushed into the spotlight by Jacques Cousteau. He claimed the fairytale underwater landscape put it up there with the world’s best diving destinations. And let’s face it, he’s seen a few. So if you’re looking to follow in Cousteau’s flippers, this is the place to do it. Diving aside, this place is like a little slice of the Mexican mainland basking in the Caribbean Sea - only it’s more mellow and much less developed, with just a sprinkling of luxury hotels on the west shore. The only town on the island, San Miguel, has a casual elegance that combines the remnants of colonial Mexico with the conveniences of modern life. The central plaza here is the heart and soul of the island. Filled with shops and restaurants, the whole area is blocked off to traffic and it‘s a nice place for a walk - particularly on Sunday evenings when the locals gather for the free open-air concerts and dances. And much like the mainland, Cozumel’s got its fair share of Mayan memorabilia, too. Tucked into the jungle, well off the beaten track, you’ll find a few spooky temples and monuments that have been hidden away for thousands of years. Of course this parcel of paradise comes tied with a ribbon of beaches. It really delivers those clichéd Caribbean images of white sands, nodding palms and seas as calm as an aquarium. It’s like someone broke off a piece of the Mayan Riviera and anchored it just off shore.

Weather

Hot days and balmy nights nearly all year around - the Caribbean Coast’s got a lot to boast about climate-wise. The best time of year to visit is between November and April when things are wonderfully warm with temperatures hugging 25°C or thereabouts. The rainy season runs from June to November, when there are short showers to contend with, but the temperatures still hover in the mid-20°Cs. July and August can even see the thermometer hitting 30°C or more. Hurricanes can hit between September and November, although hotels take extensive precautions to prepare for any storms.

Beaches

The beaches along Mexico’s Caribbean Coast are real showstoppers. We’re talking sand as soft, white and fluffy as a Mr Whippy ice-cream. Lagoon-blue waters heated to bathtub level by never-ending sunshine. And watersports galore. Take Cancun. From Playa Las Perlas in the north to Playa Nizuc in the south, this is beach city. Carpeted in crumbly-soft sands, the beaches merge together to form a dazzling 14 mile-long playground. And all along the north and east shores of its 7-shaped peninsula, they’re bordered by bars, restaurants and watersports rentals so you’re never more than a flip-flop from an ice-cold ‘cerveza’, fast ‘fajita’ or pulse-racing parasailing ride. Playa del Carmen is hot on Cancun’s heels. Here, miles of white sand unfurl in front of you, lapped by crystal-clear waters on one side and an ever-changing parade of nodding palms and restaurants on the other. It’s a similar story in Playacar and right along the Riviera Maya. Here, dreamy scoops of palm-fringed sands melt into blue-green waters that’ll get snorkellers diving for their flippers. And talking of watersports, there’s always a windsurfing, water-skiing or kayaking session waiting to top off your day. But for eye-candy beauty, it’s hard to beat Tulum. There’s the main beach – a rolled-gold sweep of sands washed by ultramarine seas. Then there’s the Tulum cove. Framed by rugged cliffs topped with an age-old Mayan temple, the sands here glide into lime-green seas. But some of the coast’s finest beaches lie offshore. On Cozumel and the Isla Mujeres to be exact. These desert island gems are encircled by tropical beaches and coral gardens brimming with coloured fish.

Food & Drink

Almost everywhere you turn on this stretch of coast, you’ll find a traditional ‘cantina’ selling Mexican favourites. There are ‘tacos’, crammed with spicy meats and cheese. Big plates of ‘chilli con carne’. Soft fajita wraps, shovelled with onions, peppers and chilli. And ‘quesilladas’ – tasty cheese-filled tortillas. A perhaps less well known, but equally tasty, dish is ‘huevos rancheros’. This hearty morning treat gives the full English brekkie a serious run for its money. Made up of sizzling fried eggs drenched in chilli-infused tomato sauce, it’s served on a floury tortilla. Traditional dishes aside, fish puts in a regular appearance on most menus. Expect red snapper and juicy prawns lifted straight from the sea. And if your tastebuds are tough enough, give super-spicy fish soup ‘sopa de camaron’ a go. But don’t worry if all this sounds to fire-powered for your tastes. All the hotels offer international restaurants serving everything from pasta to Peking duck. And in Cancun and Playa del Carmen, it’s a case of every cuisine under the sun. Flashy burger and fast food joints. Italian, Asian, French, Chinese eateries – they’re all here in force. Oh, and Mexico’s drinks are the stuff of legend. Cue more home-brewed ‘cervezas’, like Sol and Corona, than you can shake a fresh lime at. And, of course, pure tequila. Made from the blue agave plant, Mexico’s national drink comes in endless varieties. Give it a shot. Accompanied by a zesty lemon wedge to temper its fire, it’s Mexico in a glass.

Pat O’Brien’s, Cancun Waiters balancing drinks on their heads fuel the carnival mood at this iconic Ireland-meets-Texas restaurant-bar. The Cajun-Creole food’s a winner, with everything from scrummy jambalaya to good ol’ Louisana chicken to sink your teeth into. Carlos ‘n’ Charlies, Playa del Carmen On-bar congas. Singing waiters. The Mexican-American grub at this fun-loving restaurant comes with lashings of noise and colour as side orders. Los Almedros, Cancun If you’re after authentic Yucatecan food, this smartish eaterie features yellow-and-blue murals and countless traditional dishes at great prices. Don’t miss the ‘cochinita pibil’ – succulent pork baked in banana leaves. Il Giardino, Tulum This cosy Italian is a real fave and boasts an enchanting garden terrace where you can feast on soft ‘calamari’ and dreamy tiramisu amongst other delights. Club Grill, Cancun Part of the Ritz Carlton hotel, this crystal-filled dining room is all delicate scallops and melt-in-the-mouth truffles.

Shopping

For traditional shopping, hotfoot it to the open-air markets of the provincial towns. Valladolid’s a good choice. It’s got a leafy main square with stalls selling ‘huipil’ – Mayan embroidered dresses – rustic leather goods and terracotta dishes. And even though it’s a long trip, the elegant city of Merida has enough stores and markets to kick start some serious souvenir splurges. Think shops bursting with brightly striped hammocks. Scrunchable Panama hats. And comfy ‘huaraches’ - the woven leather sandals worn by villagers here for centuries. Mexico’s hand-woven, rainbow-striped rugs and blankets also make great mementos. Cheap and cheerful, most are light enough to easily carry back home. Taxco jewellery is another good buy. Taxco’s Mexico’s silver capital and famed for its finely crafted bangles, necklaces and rings. For a complete A-Z of shopping though, Cancun’s wins hands down. Its Hotel Zone is stuffed with malls that’ll whip gift-hunting ‘gringos’ into a frenzy. Cue big-label designer names, electronics shops, department stores and souvenir outlets stacked with dayglo Mayan figurines and wooden toucans. Then there’s downtown. Here, bustling markets come heaped with bric-a-brac, crafts and curios. Playa del Carmen has more than its peso-worth of shops, too. Its main thoroughfare is choc-a-bloc with arts and crafts stores, hip jewellers, pottery studios and beachwear boutiques. And although Playacar has just one mall, Playa del Carmen awaits just round the corner. But one of the best shopping haunts is Tulum. It’s got a cornucopia of shops, stalls and vendors selling rustic rugs, leatherwork and semi-precious jewellery. But whatever the other temptations, most people come home with some Mexican tequila. White ‘blanco’ is the cheapest, but for something finer and smoother, choose the gold-coloured vintages.

Nightlife

It may sound like a cliché, but the Caribbean Coast drums up something for everyone come dusk. Think wild nights of boogying where the sun sneaks up without you noticing. Evening strolls along the beach with the sands cascading between your toes. Or slurping ice-cold margaritas in a palm-decorated bar. Cancun’s the mothership of party spots. There’s just no stopping this rocket-fuelled town. First up, most of the hotels offer up discos, casinos, cocktail lounges and live music. Step outside and there’s a whole lot more. Slip into those gladrags and head for Party Center - a mass of neon-lit fun palaces that draws European and American crowds like bees to a honeypot. Cue multi-tiered clubs hosting foam parties, laser shows and world-class DJs who churn out techno, reggae and pop. Fun-packed restaurant-clubs where one minute you’re digging into ‘enchiladas’, the next you’re conga dancing on the bar. And more lounge bars, rock clubs and casinos than you could name in a week. And Playa del Carmen is a chip off Cancun’s block. It may be smaller than its neighbour, but it’s imbued with the same party spirit. The nerve centre is 5th Avenue. This colourful street is packed with subterranean clubs, funky waterholes and outdoor cafes many with dance floors. And if all that sounds too hot to handle, Playacar and other spots along the Maya Riviera are ideal. Fancy something more sedate? Tulum’s the quietest nighttime hideaway. As darkness falls, beach ‘cabanas’ and restaurants light the sands. Grab a table for a starlit dinner. Then snuggle up in a cosy bar as the first guitar strums of a ‘mariachi’ band seep into the air.

• Dady’O Cancun Burn a hole in the floor at this vast nightclub. Go-go dancers, lasers and techno make it one huge, hedonistic temple.
• Cancun Queen, Cancun Stroll the decks of this romantic dinner-show paddle cruiser as it chugs around Cancun’s lagoon. The sunset views are all the colours of the cocktails they serve.
• Mezzanine, Tulum Station yourself on a beanbag or candlelit table overlooking Tulum beach at this trendy bar. Partygoers pack in on Fridays, when world-class DJs spin the tunes.
• Blue Parrot, Playa del Carmen Sip on chilled ‘Sol’ from a rope-hung swing at this legendary Playa nightspot. Sand floors, candles and a dance stage make it Mexican through-and-through.
• Senor Frog’s, Cancun This joint jumps. Expect wild tequila lines, manic mambo lessons, loud live bands and a jam-packed dancefloor every night.

Date for your diary

If you’re fascinated by Mayan history, the Spring and Autumn Equinoxes at Chichen Itzá are unmissable. Visitors flock to the El Castillo pyramid here at both Equinoxes – around 20-21 March and 21-22 September - when the sun casts a giant, snake-shaped shadow known as the ‘Serpent of Light’, which appears to slither down the pyramid’s staircase. Elsewhere, Cancun’s a hotbed of festivities almost all year round. Colourful celebrations greet National Day on November 20 and every May, a massive Gay Festival sees beach parties and ‘mariachi’ concerts take over. The main event though is the wild, three-week January Carnival, which culminates in an exuberant procession of floats and costumed revellers.

Top 10 Experiences

Jungle tours
With lush jungles, mangrove lagoons and rivers snaking their way to the Caribbean Sea, the Yucatan peninsula is ripe for outdoor adventure. And no visit would be complete without a jungle tour. Pilot a jet-ski down a river to where it meets the neon-blue Caribbean. Board a speedboat and cruise lagoons to the calls of exotic birds. Or ride a quad along jungle paths to ancient caves, overgrown Mayan relics and ‘cenotes’ – underground pools where you can bathe in the cool waters.

Cozumel
This stunning island is popular with beach-lovers. And for good reason. Fringed by snow-white beaches and multicoloured reefs, Mother Nature let rip here. Toast your body on the sands or pull on your flippers to view the dazzling undersea life. All along the west coast, you’ll find magnificent coral beds – including the famous Palancar reef – jam-packed with jagged caves and a kaleidoscope of marine creatures including parrotfish, lobsters and turtles.

Chichen Itzá
Wow is the word. Once the capital of Mexico’s Mayan civilisation, this ceremonial centre rises up from the jungle like a lost world and is regularly voted one of the world’s best sights. Founded in AD 514, its dazzlers include the phenomenal ‘El Castillo’ or Castle - a vast, stepped pyramid with 365 steps and 52 base panels representing the solar year. Impressive when you realise that when they built these extraordinary edifices, the Mayans had not yet invented the wheel. There’s also a Mayan take on a netball court where the hoop-and-ball games often ended in human sacrifice, plus mind-boggling temples and statues. And whatever you do, don’t miss the macabre ‘Tzompantli’, where the heads of sacrificial victims were once displayed on poles. A haunting and humbling history lesson.

Tulum
It’s difficult knowing where to look at this Mayan site. Perched on wave-beaten cliffs, it’s got a touch of raw Bronte magic about it. And its ruins are something else. Centred on a soaring ‘Castillo’ temple fringed by snaking stone walls, the relics once made up a flourishing Mayan port. Don’t miss the murals inside the ‘Templo de los Frescos’.

Xel-Ha
Don a helmet to tread the seabed amid flashing fish. Stroke a smiley dolphin. Or just hang loose on a lazy hammock under a palm. This remarkable water-eco park has so many special experiences it’ll make you dizzy. Bordering a gorgeous chunk of coast, its attractions include everything from dolphin encounters to snorkelling and cliff jumping around its turquoise waterways and lagoons. Younger kids will adore it too, thanks to its water theme parks and jungle train rides.

Cobá
Set around five peaceful lakes, the Mayan city of Cobá was once home to 100,000 people. Around 600 AD, its glory rivalled that of Chichen Itzá and the two fought long wars in a bid for domination. In the end, Cobá couldn’t keep up with its neighbour and fell into decline, leaving as many as 15,000 unkempt ruins entwined in the tropical jungles. Today, the city’s remnants are undeniably impressive. The highlight is the epic ‘Nohoch Mul’, the highest pyramid in the Yucatan. Take the leg-crunching trip to its summit – you’re rewarded with spine-tingling views over the treetops.

Xcaret
Holidaying with the kids? This’ll have them open-mouthed all day long. A magnificent water-archaeological park based around a fairytale lagoon and pretend Mayan village, it’s a whirl of adventures and events. Watch a recreation of an ancient Mayan ball game. Snorkel along subterranean rivers. And stick around for the nightly spectacular – a stage extravaganza showcasing Mayan dances and rituals. It’s like a cross between Disneyland and National Geographic, Mexican-style.

Valladolid
This charming Spanish colonial town is great if you tire of the beach or Mayan sites. It boasts some fine monuments arranged around a pretty main square. Check out its stunning San Bernardino de Siena monastery before ferreting for souvenirs in its bustling open-air markets. And don’t miss a swim in its ‘cenotes’. Floating amid their stalactites and hanging vines is simply incredible.

Crococun
You half expect to bump into David Attenborough at this lovely zoo park. You’ll get to stroke crocodiles as well as silky boa constrictors, friendly monkeys, big-eyed baby deer and squawking parrots, all led by a trained, English-speaking guide.

Isla Mujeres
A sleepy jewel just off Cancun, this gorgeous island is light years from its near neighbour. Threaded with sandy roads, clapboard houses and coconut-white beaches, it’s great for a day’s escape. Swim with dolphins in the reef-filled waters of Garrafon Nature Park, sip tequilas at a beach cantina or head for the islet of Contoy to clock its spectacular flocks of pelicans and seabirds.

Just So You Know
Shopaholics rejoice. The shops on the Caribbean Coast open early, at about 8.30am, and stay that way till around 9pm, so you can souvenir-hunt all day long if that’s your style. Many do business on Sundays, too. And remember, if you’re shopping at a market, it’s well worth haggling, especially if you’re buying more than one article.